The ride from Fort Stockton to New Orleans was outstanding - mainly because we were finally surrounded by large stands of vegetation and water, unlike the landscape we had been in for the last week or so. Having said that, we swapped the dry heat for the wet heat, i.e. serious humidity! We also got caught big time in one of the many thunderstorms that are attacking this part of the cou ntry. People have already died as a result. The trick is to try and find an overpass and park under it very quickly as they pass over within 30 minutes or so. Forked lightning, thunder, rain you can't see through makes the whole experience pretty dangerous on bikes. You need to keep an eye on the sky. The dark clouds roll in quick from nowhere and the next thing it is chaos.
As we waited under the overpass another biker hauled in across the road and so did the local Sheriff. I guess it is just part of life around here. It cleared quick and as soon as we got back on the Interstate we travelled less than 500 yards and the roads were bone dry. Go figure. As we approached Louisiana you could feel the change in the humidity, we could have cut the air with a knife. We hit amajor traffic snarl up as we got into New Orleans, adding around an hour to our ride that we hadn't planned on. Luckilywe had booked a hotel in the French Quarter, where we could park the bikes out front and it was a quick unpack, a shower and straight on the town.
It had been 11 years since we were last on Bourbon Street. Back then there was a lot of Cajun, Blues and Jazz bars operating. We were disappointed with what we found this time round. It was tailored for the younger drunk with most of the music being pretty average new rock and covers. I hated it. We tried to find some Cajun music but were unsuccessful. Pleased to say the food is still pretty good and I finished the night off with a Catfish Po Boy (in other words a very tatsy fried fish sandwich with lots of spices and sauces - delicious). For anyone planning to come to New Orleans I recommend avoiding Bourbon Street other than for the interest factor, and instead you should get on to the streets that run adjacent to it - great bars, restaurants and yes - good music. Unfortunately we didn't get to enjoy them, but we still had a good night and were pleased to be able to ride through the city post Katrina. On the face of it New orleans is a bustling, vibrant place and you do not immediately notice the boarded up windows and empty buildings in some parts of the city. I was surprised at how the place seems to have rebounded from the effects of the Hurricane. We managed to get into some of the residential areas and there were still signs of abandoned homes, but overall I did not get the impression that the place was not recovering. The French Quarter still looks the same, and remains vibrant and appealing.
We awoke early in anticipation of the ride North. This would have us riding through the bayous and across Lake Ponchartrain. The roading system is amazing. They have built these amazing freeways over the bayous and it is an indication that the government is pouring money into this area, they are an engineering wonder. Miles and miles of elevated road like one great big long bridge. This is some of the best riding we have done. Then there is the bridge across Ponchartrain , reputedly the longest bridge of it's type across water in the world.
The next few days will really test us. We ride out of Louisiana, into Missisippi, then Tennesee, Indiana, Illinois then Wisconsin. All within three days. Our first stop was just North of Jackson after stopping i at the local Harley delaership (of course). This was an incredible place, it was unlike all the other Harley dealerships we have seen in that it looked rough and well used from the outside. There were staff with their families (and babies) and everyone was sort of sitting around talking about the weather, old Ma Smith up the road and numerous other local issues. But they were sure as hell friendly, and it turned out one of them was married to the local Sherrif. She gave us some good tips on where not to stay that night. This place had the biggest selection of Harley clothing I have ever seen. They had trestle tables with all their unsold winter gear just piled high. $1200 leather jackets for $200. If only we had room.
Based on the advice we got we rode past Jackson and pulled into the very nice University (College) town of Clinton. Another beautifully appointed Best Western room for the princely sum of $60 including breakfast. Clinton was memorable because we discovered the joys of Applebees. This is a bar and grill chain here in the USA and they are bloody good. A meal, lots of beers and out the door for under $30. Bring it on. Tomorrow we push past Nashville before the last leg to Wisconson.
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